I’ve just returned from an exhilarating 20-day adventure through the breathtaking landscapes of Patagonia and Antarctica, and I’m thrilled to share my journey, discoveries, and experiences with you all right here! Let’s Go!
So if you’re planning a Patagonia hiking trip, chances are you’ve run into the same question we did:
El Chaltén or Torres del Paine?
Both are iconic. Both are stunning. And honestly — there’s no wrong choice. But for our style of travel, El Chaltén ended up being the better fit, and I’m so glad it was.
Here’s why we chose El Chaltén, what surprised me about hiking there, and what I wish I had understood before lacing up my boots.
Accessibility Matters More Than You Think
One of the biggest reasons we chose El Chaltén over Torres del Paine was ease of access.
Traveling from El Calafate to El Chaltén is surprisingly seamless. Instead of navigating rental car paperwork fees to cross the border to Chile or hunting for the next gas station, we hopped on a three-hour bus ride straight into the heart of town. The logistics were effortless, leaving me free to stare out the window at wild horses, rheas, and guanacos racing across the plains. The best part? Once you arrive, the quaint village is perfectly walkable.
El Chaltén is a small hiking village, and that simplicity mattered. Less time driving meant more time on the trail, more flexibility with weather, and less physical and mental fatigue before we even started hiking.
For a destination as physically demanding as Patagonia, that balance was huge.
Iconic Mountain Views — Without the Extra Complexity
Fitz Roy is the kind of mountain that doesn’t just appear on one hike — it’s everywhere. From certain spots on the edge of town, near the river and even close to the bus depot, you’re already surrounded by dramatic views.
That constant visual payoff made El Chaltén feel immersive in a way I hadn’t fully expected. The mountains felt close, personal, and ever-present — not something you only see after hours of effort.
The Reality Check: Patagonia Hiking Is Harder Than It Looks
Let’s talk honestly about Laguna de los Tres (Fitz Roy) trek.
I trained at the gym. I enjoy hiking trips. And it was still far harder than I expected.
We hiked the Laguna de los Tres, it was an 18.8 miles round trip from our stay in El Chaltén. It took us about 9 hours of hiking and then we decided to hang out on top of the trail for several hours, including lots of stops for photos (because… how could you not?). I was a month shy of turning 62, and while I was proud of the training I did, it still pushed me more than anticipated.
And yet — I would do it again in a heartbeat.
The final climb is steep, relentless, and humbling. But the reward at the top is beyond words. The views of Laguna de los Tres are spectacular, but what surprised me most was how much I loved the side lake to the left — Laguna Sucia. That quieter, less-crowded view ended up being our favorite moment of the entire hike.
We were also very fortunate enough to spot a South American gray fox at the top of the hike— an unforgettable bonus after such a demanding climb.
Weather Decides Everything (Especially for Fitz Roy)
One of the most important things to understand about hiking in El Chaltén is this:
Weather determines your hike.
If you’re planning to do Fitz Roy as a day hike (as we did), choosing the right day matters. Ideally, you want clear or mostly clear conditions, and you want to avoid rain if possible.
We hiked on a partly cloudy day, which actually gave Fitz Roy a dramatic, ever-changing look. The clouds rolled in and out, creating an iconic atmosphere that felt uniquely Patagonian. It wasn’t the bluebird postcard image — but it was stunning in its own way.
Flexibility is key here. Patagonia doesn’t care about your schedule.
Smart Hiking Strategy: Alternate Hard and Easy Days
One thing we did right was pacing.
Instead of stacking hard hikes back-to-back, we alternated:
- Day 1: Laguna Torre (~12 miles round trip)
- Day 2: Laguna de los Tres / Fitz Roy (18.8 miles)
- Day 3: Salto El Chorrillo (easy waterfall hike)
- Day 4: Mirador de los Cóndores (sunrise & sunset) + recovery
- Day 5: Explored the village before leaving. Experienced a variety of weather — windy, cloudy, rainy off and on
Laguna Torre is a beautiful hike, but clouds rolled in by the time we reached the lake, hiding the peaks. That’s Patagonia — sometimes the mountains show up, sometimes they don’t. Managing expectations is just as important as managing mileage.
The Salto El Chorrillo hike was perfect the day after Fitz Roy — simple, scenic, and restorative. And the Mirador de los Cóndores at sunrise and sunset delivered incredible views with far less effort.
What I Wish I’d Had Energy For
If I had one hiking regret, it’s that I didn’t have the energy left for Loma del Pliegue Tumbado. It’s a longer, demanding hike with panoramic views, and it’s high on my list for next time.
That said, I have zero regrets about doing Fitz Roy. It was the hardest hike of the trip (and that I have ever done)— and the most rewarding.
Final Thoughts: Why El Chaltén Was Right for Us
El Chaltén gave us:
- Easier logistics
- Walkable access to trails
- Iconic mountain scenery
- Flexibility with weather
- A chance to hike smart, not rushed
Patagonia is not about conquering every trail — it’s about choosing the right experiences for your body, your goals, and your timing.
Here’s a photo from Pangea Restaurant in downtown El Chaltén, showcasing the stunning wildflowers of Argentina, lupines, and the iconic Fitz Roy!
If you’re considering hiking in Patagonia — or even pairing it with a bigger adventure like Antarctica — thoughtful planning makes all the difference. These trips are incredible, but they reward preparation and realistic expectations.
The Good Mile Co 
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